Ondertussen dat ik zaterdag aan het klimmen was verloor Robert Bouten zijn Olympische kwalificatie een Ierland en Kroati en draagt hij zijn verlies als een groot sportman, volgens Erben Wennemars. Da's alsnog goed slapen dan, toch?

Vandaag, na 30 km fietstraining met Leonoor ben ik naar de lead klimwedstrijd in de Monte Cervino gegaan. Daar werd Marianne van der Steen 3e. Dat was voor haar echt een verrassing. En sinds een jaar ( EK ijsklimmen Saas Fee 2011 ) was zij ook weer echt blij met haar prestatie. Ik dus ook. Marianne won en Robert verloor.

Nu staat een coaching event met DMM climbing in de Frankenjura op het programma. Aanstaande donderdag rijden Leonoor en ik erheen, gaan 3 dagen klimmen en coachen en de hele week daarna hebben we tijd aan onszelf. Dat programma wordt een mix van klimmen, genieten, Duits kuhrbad en klimmen. Ook ontvang ik in de Frankenjura mijn nieuwe klimspullen van DMM climbing. #zininhetlevenvaneenklimmer!

Boven: old school in Elbsandstein.

Wat ook zeker is is dat ik zelf een old school klimmer ben en dat dat ook zo z’n voordelen heeft. Een voorbeeld daarvan is deFrankenjura trip die volgende week gaat plaatsvinden in samenwerking met DMM climbing. Met enige trots meld ik dan toch maar dat ik GoodClimbing in 1 week aan 2 sponsors heb verbonden, FiveTen klimschoenen en DMM climbingklimmaterialen. Jullie als deelnemers kunnen daar ook van profiteren door bijvoorbeeld mee te gaan met zo’n Frankenjura sponsortrip. Ik ga jullie op de hoogte houden van andere activiteiten.

Links: Michel Kleinjan Liedekerke

Style d’escalade: classique
Type de voie: sport
Massif: Rochers de Marche-les-Dames
Nombre de longueurs: 2 longueurs
Longueur la plus difficile: 5a

O ja, huiswerk was er ook:

Aan iedereen wil ik adviseren de blogs van de maanden februari t/m april nog eens van voor naar achter te doorlopen en jezelf recht in de ogen kijken en je afvragen of je nu daadwerkelijk alle core stabillity oefening volledig beheerst en aangesloten kunt uitvoeren en dan ook nog in kunt passen in het thuis oefen schema van de blog van april en schouder stabiliteits oefeningen beheerst. Pas dan gaan we verder met nieuwe oefeningen voor thuis.

Om mijn pleidooi voor avontuur en sport beleving kracht bij te zetten. Een artikel dat in de New York Times stond toen ik in September 2011 alleen in Fontaine Bleau was om boulder parcoursen te klimmen. Ik kocht op een rustdag de enige Engelstalige krant die verkrijgbaar was en het onderstaande artikel stond niet toevallig daarin.

EXPLOITS, NOW NOT SO DARING
BY DAVID ROBERTS
PUBLISHED: SEPTEMBER 15, 2011

IN 1955, the great Italian climber Walter Bonatti became trapped by storms on the fifth day of a solo climb on the Petit Dru in the French Alps. He had traversed so far in one direction that he’d cut off all possibility of retreat. A blank wall rose above him. He was beyond rescue and knew it. So he fashioned an escape that has never been duplicated in mountaineering.

Mr. Bonatti tied three loops in his rope and attached a carabiner to each. Then he swung the rope up the cliff like a gaucho slinging a bolo. On the 12th throw, a carabiner snagged in an invisible crack 40 feet above, but a slight tug popped it loose. He tried again and again, until another carabiner finally held fast. He tested the rope with all his weight, then pulled himself up, hand over hand.

The ascent was later hailed by Doug Scott, the great British veteran of the Himalayas, as “probably the most important single climbing feat ever to take place in mountaineering.”

The point is, Mr. Bonatti, who died Tuesday at age 81, fully accepted the dictum of adventure that had been true for centuries, but that may no longer hold: if you get into trouble, you have to get yourself out.

In the last 10 or 15 years, all of that has changed — for the worse, in my view. Thanks to satellite phones, radios, helicopters, GPS’s and other technology, extreme adventurers not only can often be rescued from otherwise fatal situations, but they sometimes count on such a rescue as an emergency escape option.

In 2005, Tomaz Humar, a celebrated Slovenian mountaineer, was stranded by storms on a ledge on Nanga Parbat in Pakistan. His team, with whom he was in regular radio contact, called for a risky rescue at almost 20,000 feet by Pakistani Army pilots flying a high-tech helicopter.

With a sling device, pushing the very limits of the craft, the two pilots got Mr. Humar off the mountain. But when he forgot to unclip the nylon cord attaching him to the mountain, he almost pulled the copter and himself into a fatal plunge. (At the last minute the cord broke under the strain, freeing Mr. Humar.)

All this was covered live on the Internet. Back home in Slovenia, Mr. Humar was greeted as a hero, even though he had been the beneficiary of a daring rescue. Nobody outside Pakistan gave much credit to the real heroes, the pilots.

Just last November, two climbers, one Japanese and one German, were stuck on Ama Dablam, a moderately difficult lower peak near Everest. Twenty years ago, they would have had to get themselves out of trouble. Now they called for a rescue. A helicopter got the German climber off the mountain, but on the second trip, to retrieve his partner, a rotor apparently clipped the slope, plunging the helicopter 6,000 feet and killing both pilot and engineer. A backup copter plucked the Japanese climber to safety.

Adventurers of my generation, who started exploring in the 1960s, used the phrase “out there” as a term of highest praise. “Man, Bonatti was really out there on the Dru.” The two words capture it all — out there, near the limits of what is humanly possible, out there where nobody can save you.

Nowadays very few adventurers are truly out there as Mr. Bonatti was. I would argue that it’s their psychic and experiential loss.

On my 13 Alaskan expeditions in the 1960s and 1970s, my partners and I felt as though we were out there. We never had a radio and we knew there was no possibility of being rescued. Our only contact with the outside came when our bush pilot flew by on the way to somewhere else, spotted us and waggled his wings as a greeting.

When one of our climbing partners, Ed Bernd, was killed in a 4,500-foot fall on Mount Huntington in 1965, the rest of us not only couldn’t look for his body, we couldn’t even call for help. We had to wait nine days, numb with shock and grief, before our pilot spotted a message we’d stamped in the snow near base camp and landed to pick us up. “Where’s the fourth guy?” were the pilot’s first words.

For modern adventurers, the blissful disconnectedness from the rest of the world, which Mr. Bonatti not only accepted but embraced, may be gone for good. It’s harder than ever to get truly out there.

David Roberts is the author of more than 20 books about adventure and Western history, including, most recently, “Finding Everett Ruess.

Tot volgende week, Michel Kleinjan – GoodClimbing

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Als je kunt voorklimmen overweeg dan mee te gaan naar de gratis coaching dagen in de Frankenjura. DMM heeft de trainees van GoodClimbing expliciet uitgenodigd voor dit klimmers event, en je hoeft geen hoog klimniveau te hebben.

Tot volgende week, Michel Kleinjan – GoodClimbing

In this classic UKC training/health article, physiotherapist Gabriella Frittelli takes us through some shoulder exercises that can help prevent shoulder injuries and the well known and feared Shoulder Impingement Syndrome.

Gabriella teaches us how to strengthen our ‘Rotator Cuff’ muscles, with a series of exercises using a theraband.

The article was originally published back in 2005 but has been revamped and reformatted for 2011.

So you hit the climbing wall hard all winter and now you’re off to tick some real rock at Portland or Stanage. Better pack one piece of personal protective equipment besides your cams or quickdraws – stable shoulders.

“What?” you say, “I’m strong – I’ve been cranking 6a’s on the wall!”

Strong shoulders, however, are not necessarily stable shoulders and if you are pulling down often, you could be a prime candidate for Shoulder Impingement Syndrome (SIS). Climbers are particularly susceptible to SIS because they are always reaching overhead – higher, higher, higher for that next hold.

While the shoulder is likely the most mobile joint of the body – it’s also one of the most vulnerable to injury, especially with over-use from hard climbing. © Ennemoser

If you feel a sensation of “popping” or “crackling” at your shoulder as you reach for that gaston or jug you might be experiencing the start of SIS. That nagging pain that you may experience at the shoulder is likely inflammation of tendons of the rotator cuff getting “pinched”. If it continues, the only thing you may be reaching for is a bottle of pain killers. In worst case scenarios SIS can lead to surgery. Ask John Dunne or Jerry Moffat who both had complicated shoulder surgery because of severe SIS. But it’s not just top climbers who are at risk, we all are.

The good news is you can avoid SIS. The secret is preventative exercise. You may have honed the prime movers of the shoulder – your lats, deltoids, traps, triceps, biceps and pects in prime time at the wall. But you likely ignored strengthening a group of four muscles called the rotator cuff. The rotator cuff muscles are the core stabilizers of the shoulder.

While the shoulder is likely the most mobile joint of the body – it’s also one of the most vulnerable to injury. You can blame the architecture of the shoulder joint. The shoulder is a “ball and socket” type joint like the hip. Unlike the hip, however, the socket is not deep. In fact, the “socket” of the shoulder joint is similar in shape to a saucer. The end of the humerus(your arm bone) is shaped like a ball and sits in this saucer. The ball of the humerus, called the “humeral head”, is almost four times the size of the saucer. While the structure of the joint allows considerable mobility of the shoulder, it does not offer stability. The stability of the shoulder joint relies on the strength of the rotator cuff. The job of these four tiny muscles is to “hug” the humeral head and keep it centred in the socket.

Think of the rotator cuff as the guide wires of a tent. If one is too slack or too tight, the tent won’t sit erect. Each muscle of the rotator cuff works to keep the shoulder bone (the humeral head) centred in the joint socket. If your rotator cuff is weak, when you reach overhead the humeral head will ride “high’ in the socket and butt up against another bone- the “ceiling” of the shoulder joint called the acromion. Repetitively reaching overhead on the rock will eventually lead to pinching, shearing of the tendons of the shoulder. Ouch! Pinching, shearing of the tendons leads to inflammation also known as tendonitis. You likely have developed “Shoulder Impingement Syndrome”.

The good news is you can prevent chronic shoulder tendonitis by regularly investing a few minutes in a rotator cuff strengthening program. All you need is a towel and a length of resistive band or theraband. Below are some exercises that may prevent shoulder injuries. Lisa Rands, one of the USA’s top boulderers and headpointers follows a similar set of exercises. She stresses that it is important to do these exercises right. Always maintain good posture when performing the exercises – back straight, upright shoulder girdle – no slumping!

If you can manage to these exercises three times a week you will be on your way to healthy shoulders but you will benefit even more if you do them everyday.

I. Internal Rotation Tuck a folded bath towel under your armpit. Place the resistive band at elbow height. Keeping your elbow bent at ninety degrees pull the band toward your belly-button. Return to the starting position slowly. Do three sets of ten repetitions.

II. External rotation Tuck your arm at the side of your body as for the internal rotation exercise. Keep your elbow at the side of your body. Pull the band outward keeping your elbow bent at ninety degrees. Squeeze your shoulder blade toward spine as you pull the band out. Return slowly. Do three sets of ten repetitions.

III. Rows Stand with good posture and grasp two strands of the band in front of you at chest height. Pull the band down to the side of your body keeping your elbows straight. Squeeze your shoulder blades together and return slowly. Do three sets of ten repetitions.

IV. Scaption Place one foot on the band and grasp the band with your thumb face down. Lift the band upward and slightly forward of your body in a thirty-degree arc of motion. Return slowly. Do three sets of ten repetitions.

Please note: This article is not intended as a treatment guideline for shoulder injuries. The exercises illustrated may be more effective under the instruction of a physiotherapist or athletic trainer.

If you have pain in your shoulders, seek the medical advice of your doctor. Shoulder pain can have a variety of causes. Sometimes it is caused by referred pain from the neck. You may have a stiff and painful shoulder caused by osteoarthritis or an adhesive capsule. Your doctor will be able to determine the cause of your pain and will select the appropriate treatment plan. You may be referred for physiotherapy intervention. Physiotherapy treatments may include joint mobilization, posture and exercise training to ensure optimal joint mechanics, and anti-inflammatory modalities such as ultrasound, electrical stimulation and ice. Consultation with a physio and/or occupational therapist may keep you climbing high all season.

Gabriella Frittelli, BA, MSPT, is a graduate of Simmons Graduate School of Health Studies in Boston. She spent many weekends rock and ice climbing in New England and the Gunks of New York State. For the past ten years she lived in Bishop, California where working as a physical therapist she gained much experience treating injuries related to climbing, skiing, and other mountain sports. She presently works at Regional Therapy Center at Saratoga Springs Hospital as a Senior Physical Therapist.

Bron

Indien je interesse hebt mail dan naar: martin@bigwall.nl

Volg deze link om mijn aanbod te bekijken: http://blog.martinfickweiler.nl/?page_id=1295

Met vriendelijke groet,

Martin Fickweiler.

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Gratis klimcoaching van 3+ tot 10+, klimmaterialen uitproberen en klimmen met het DMM pro-team  in de Frankenjura, Duitsland.

Van 18 t/m 20 mei ben je welkom om met GoodClimbing en het DMM pro-team te klimmen in de rotsen van de Frankenjura.

Via deze link kun je zien waar we gaan klimmen in de Frankenjura.

We gaan je coachen op techniek, doorzettingsvermogen en delen tips & trics. Het DMM pro-team is aanwezig, je gaat met de duitse toppers mee om, het echte werk af te kijken, met ze te klimmen en te leren. Verder kun je klimmen met de nieuwste DMM klimmaterialen, je oude karabiners testen en natuurlijk torte eten.

De opzet is een gezellige klimmeeting voor de trainees en vrienden van GoodClimbing. Je zorgt zelf voor je reis, onderdak en onderhoud. Als je komt, neem dan je vrienden mee en stuur mij een e-mail met hoeveel mensen je komt. Je hoeft geen hoog klimniveau te hebben om drie super leuke klimdagen te hebben ! Heb je wel een hoog klimniveau dan is dit je kans om met een eigen coach je moeilijkste routes te proberen !

Alle klimdagen starten vanuit hier Een impressie van de meeting van vorig jaar

Het duitse DMM pro team:

Alex Schweikart

Felix Fromm

Heiko Queitsch

Jude Spancken

Tot ziens in de Frankenjura, Michel Kleinjan – GoodClimbing

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